![]() ![]() leave them off.Īll perimeter/security lights are in the off position under normal conditions. ![]() Time to take the dogs for their evening walk (perimeter check) - you can trigger the security lights from the remote or the cellphone or the tablet (usingt the hyyp app) or if you like me i prefer to walk in the dark. other 3 for switching on security lights (area 1 -3 ) tablet mounted on the wall.Ĥ button remote - red button panic. Old cellphone and tablet - cellphone is mobile to carry around. cctv and device activation.ĭay/night switch - so that the security flood lights only work at night. I got tired of using 1 app for the alarm (hyyp).one app for the cctv (IDMSS plus) and another app to trigger lights etc (ewelink) I am busy setting up my security lights to work via the alarm. The connectors on the NOVA receiver are not exactly a good fit for anything over 1.5mm2 wire, and thick wire ("normal AC" as opposed to 6/8 core alarm wire) does not route easily if keeping the receiver's cover on. sometimes required multiple presses to work (like when you arrive at the gate and have to press your remote button more than once even though the battery is new). I have previously used a receiver (but actual physical button pressing, not a remote wired to any outputs) like this to switch on a light in a separate building. When the alarm output triggers, it "presses" the button on the remote and the receiver at the light closes the relay which switches on the light. The Nova receiver has a 10A 220V AC rated relay which you wire NO as the light switch (but for this you obviously need a separate permanently connected 12V supply for the receiver at the light). Have a Nova receiver paired with the "alarm light remote" at/near your light. Wire an actual button remote (like a nova, 1/2/4 button remote) again on the alarm output (those tiny remote batteries are 12v so I think 12V from the alarm should not kill the remote (like it will if you wire it directly to a sonoff which runs 3.3V). Stepping down the alarm's 12v to 3.3V and bypassing the Nova receiver completely could also be an option. a second sonoff acting as your light switch receives input, via home assistant that a button was pressed which requires sonoff2 to switch on. In short, get a remote receiver like a Centurion Nova receiver, wire the alarm output as 12V power source to the receiver, adapt a basic sonoff so that you have wires from the sonoff's physical button to the Nova Receiver relay wired as Normally Closed - when the alarm output triggers, it powers up the Nova Receiver and with the relay wired a NC it "presses" the button on the sonoff. I do think it will trigger the light more reliably than option 2. ![]() I do not see it working without more parts. One option would be WiFi switches like the sonoffs and such, but without going full tilt and adding home assistant (running on a RPi etc). I am pretty sure there are likely neat out of the box options or much more elegant ways from the more electronically gifted but if wanting to MaCgyver/Frankenstein it I would have tried the following (you will need to have 12V close to you light though and/or 230V close to the alarm output and solder a wire or two). How do i use this signal to switch on the lights? The system would have to operate wireless. The alarm system (Paradox) has programmable PGM outputs (12V 700mA) i could use to generate the required "on" signal. I would like the alarm system to switch on the outside lights if an alarm is triggered. ![]()
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